You start retinol, and two weeks later your skin looks worse than before. This is the point where most people throw the bottle away. Often they are a fortnight from the part that works.
What purging actually is
Retinol speeds up skin cell turnover. Congestion that was already forming under the surface, and would have appeared over the following weeks anyway, surfaces all at once instead. You are not breaking out more; you are breaking out sooner.
How long it lasts
Purging generally runs four to six weeks, which is roughly one full skin cell turnover cycle. It should peak somewhere in the first three weeks and then clearly improve. If week eight looks like week two, it is not purging.
Purging or a reaction? How to tell
- Where. Purging appears where you normally break out. Spots in areas that never break out point to a reaction.
- What kind. Purging brings small whiteheads and blackheads that surface and clear quickly. Reactions bring redness, itching, burning, flaking or tight skin.
- How long. Purging improves after a few weeks. A reaction gets worse the longer you continue.
Rash, swelling or persistent burning is not purging. Stop, and see a dermatologist if it does not settle.
How to start retinol without the worst of it
- Two to three nights a week, not every night. Build up over two months.
- A pea-sized amount for the whole face. More product does not mean faster results, only more irritation.
- On completely dry skin. Damp skin absorbs more and reacts harder.
- Buffer it. Moisturizer before retinol, or mixed into it, softens the start considerably.
- Sunscreen every single morning. Retinol increases UV sensitivity, so skipping SPF undoes the work.
What to avoid while you adjust
Keep exfoliating acids, scrubs and strong vitamin C away from retinol nights. On the nights you skip retinol, a hydrating step helps the barrier recover: an overnight mask is well suited to this, since it does nothing but hydrate.
A word of caution
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative. It is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding, and you should take your overall vitamin A intake into account. If you are on any prescription skin treatment, ask your doctor before adding it.
If you want to start gradually, our Korean retinol serum is a liquid formula that layers easily and is simple to buffer with a moisturizer. Pair it with a daily SPF 50+ from day one.